Men’s Fashion Week - FW25/27
Bed j.w. Ford
in Paris photographed by Ambre Siard
At Vecchio au Perchoir: a jazzy, performance-tinged presentation of refined Japanese style, fluid silhouettes, and the occasional cape, because we all need a hero these days. Red candles dripped, oozing winter in full seductive swing.
3.Paradis
in Paris photographed by Taeho Lee
Runway as Remembrance, “A tribute to those who are no longer here, yet remain alive in our hearts.”
Feng Chen Wang
in Paris photographed by Marta Petraccone
FW26 by Feng Chen Wang begins with a fundamental inquiry: how opposing forces exist side by side, find balance, and continue to evolve. Rooted in the Chinese philosophy of Liang Yi — the Two Forces — the collection doesn’t frame duality as conflict, but as a living system in motion. Soft and structured. Past and future. Control and release. Each look feels like a negotiation rather than a decision. At MERDE, we’re drawn to designers who explore the space between extremes — where tension becomes harmony, and identity is allowed to be layered, fluid, and unresolved. This is clothing as equilibrium.
Walter Van Beirendonck
in Paris photographed by Wout Vloeberghs
Walter has always made space for the figures standing slightly to the side. The ones assembled from whatever is at hand, trying to look human. The Scarecrows of now.
Kidill
in Paris photographed by Jeesi Kalombo, plus brief Q&A With Designer: Hiroaki Sueyasu
Silence can feel confrontational in fashion. Did this decision feel like a risk, or a return to something essential?
By incorporating silence, I felt I was able to confront the clothes in a pure way. While continuing the spirit of punk, I was also able to approach the essence of garment-making more deeply. I believe a simple runway show makes the clothes easiest to understand and allows my ideas to be communicated to customers more clearly.
How does stillness change the way punk communicates today?
To me, punk is never something superficial — it’s a burning, powerful emotion that exists inside a person. I create my collections with that same strong sense of spirit embedded within them. By blending opposing elements such as chaos and stillness, repression and liberation, I believe something is born, unreal illusions and raw, visceral emotions. Even today, I think punk is about carrying contradictions, confronting yourself, and continuing to struggle, that enduring spirit of rebellion.
in Milan photographed by Valeriya Knyazeva, words by Saulė Rudyte
What is the recipe of living? At PDF, it starts with pasta, of course, al dente. The AW26 theatrical spectacle at Teatro Lirico unfolded like a dinner where tables — and meanings — constantly change. Among the guests, subtle signals of hope for an inclusive and peaceful world emerged against a backdrop of conflict and division. Faces heavy with grillz and chains mirrored the models in layered parkas and bombers, dressed in Domenico’s iconic prints, leopard and fuzzy hats, and new interpretations of strada boots. The opening look, wrapped entirely in the classic Italian tablecloth that began the dinner for us, set the tone. A reminder that tables shift fast — from sitting beside your big sister to a casino table, surrounded by boys chasing the briefcase that hides the recipe everyone could share.
