Milan Fashion Week Men’s SS26
Words by Saulè Rudyte
Photos By Tigre Zhang
You can't try to crack the fashion industry and dislike "crackers" at the same time. You just cannot. Simon Cracker's SS26 collection, "Il diavolo è nei dettagli" (“The devil’s in the details”), was all about bringing attention back to the clothes and their details. Everyone's an expert on everything these days, expressing profound statements, but instead of asserting your questionable expertise, perhaps it wouldn't hurt to observe the subtleties. You don't need to look closely! Whimsically huge zippers, buttons (we intuitively guessed the upcoming appearance of those), and humongous safety pins are what keep us "pinned" and hanging on by a thread in this economy. Sincerely, do we even hold on to anything internally at this point?
Exclusively white, rope, ecru, and shades of gray and black were obtained by dyeing, painting, and bleaching. These colors came together into square-shaped tops and shorts as this year's uniform, finished with graffitied Crocs. The "Crackers" were led by the Klaus Nomi soundtrack, "You Don't Own Me." The brand seems to have pulled a “Margiela”; looks were created using out-of-scale details usually found in Martin’s work, white paint, trompe l'oeil, and the patina of time—creating a certain idea of a wardrobe with precise and unique clothing statements, exactly like “crackers”: never the same, never a copy, never identical.
Did you hear the bells? David Catalan’s SS26 collection “PROBLEMS” just jingled. This year, David brought our attention to traditional Portuguese crafts and the softness of Manta Alentejana textiles, which teleport us straight to Alentejo. At Fondazione Sozzani, we could hear not only the birds chirping but also the music of guizos (bells), which used to be worn by domesticated animals in rural pastoral (shepherding) settings. Every MOOOOOOve of the models was accompanied by a symphony of bells that could spark some memory in you of the holidays—or make the wearer noticed in the most chic way at a party. The traditional elements, adapted and modernized for today’s human of David Catalan, reinforced the designer's signature approach of intersecting elements of strong cultural identity with the functionality and utilitarian construction of streetwear.
Miguel Vieira
How would you spend a summer night in the garden? Or, more importantly, what would you wear? During Miguel Vieira's SS26 show, we found the answers. "A Night in the Garden," as interpreted by the designer, featured mostly black looks with touches of silver and white—perfect for blending in with the shadows of the night.
Embroidered, structured pieces, sophisticated sparkle in the textiles, and beautiful satin shine played a significant part in Vieira's summer night vision. Patent leather shoes decorated with charms and black mesh necklaces, adding a touch of contemporary rebellion, were featured in the men's looks. These were followed by women's pieces marked with satin ribbons that delicately crossed over the silhouettes and fluid fabrics. Embroidered asymmetric hats lent poetry to the character of Miguel's world. While listening to the clack of the shoes, you could observe the beautiful men's blazers decorated with leather calla lilies instead of pocket squares. A nocturnal paradise as inspiration for sophisticated luxury is what creates the mysterious and poetic future world of SS26 Miguel Vieira.
